China is rapidly expanding its influence in the global caviar industry, turning a traditional luxury food into a symbol of its economic rise, reports The Financial Times. Once dominated by Russia and Europe, caviar production has shifted toward aquaculture, with Chinese firms like Kaluga Queen now producing up to two-thirds of the world’s supply. Beijing’s state-backed push into gourmet foods, including salmon, Wagyu beef, and truffles, is driving global competition and lowering prices, creating tensions with Western producers while appealing to affluent consumers. The trend highlights China’s growing economic reach, the fluidity of cultural symbols, and the interplay between trade, nationalism, and luxury markets. They write:
This year, trade wars have erupted on multiple fronts, ranging from solar panels to soyabeans. These will undoubtedly continue in 2026.
As America seeks to curb Chinese exports, the Middle Kingdom’s trade surplus has just topped $1tn for the first time, as demand for Chinese goods stays strong. And the more Washington slaps tariffs on Chinese imports, the more European and UK policymakers express concerns about “diversion” — the risk that China will respond to US pressure by dumping cheap goods in Europe. Recent hand-wringing from French President Emmanuel Macron is a case in point.
But while Macron focuses on manufacturing, there is another — more colourful — sector that also deserves attention this festive season: caviar. Yes, really. […]
Initially this aquaculture was dominated by European and US groups. But in recent years Chinese companies have also entered the sphere with state support, led by Kaluga Queen, a farm on Lake Qingdao. And they have dived in with such stunning efficiency and focus — echoing what has happened with, say, solar panels — that Kaluga is now the biggest caviar producer in the world. Indeed, China accounts for between half and two-thirds of global production (precise data, like the product, is slippery). […]
So how will this fishy tale end? Maybe Europe will copy America next year and raise tariffs on most Chinese food imports. But it is also possible that the European Commission simply ignores the gourmet food trade, because it is relatively small in global terms. […]
So how will this fishy tale end? Maybe Europe will copy America next year and raise tariffs on most Chinese food imports. But it is also possible that the European Commission simply ignores the gourmet food trade, because it is relatively small in global terms.
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